Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Movie Review: Jiro Dreams of Sushi

Located inside a busy Tokyo subway hub, lies a crowned jewel of Japanese cuisine.  A small, yet perfectly designed and efficiently functional sushi bar, boasts the best sushi in all of Tokyo.  Reservations are taken one month in advance.  The restaurant only seats 10 people at a time. Sushi, the only item served at this restaurant, starts at about 30,000 yen.  Standing behind the counter........an icon and true sushi master Jiro Ono.

"Jiro Dreams of Sushi" is a brilliant documentary that depicts the artistry, passion, commitment, and sheer determination of one chef's love for his craft.  Jiro has worked in the sushi industry for 75 years.  At 85 years old, Chef Ono is the oldest recipient of Michelin's highest honor.....3 stars.  He is also in the Guinness Book of World Records as the oldest individual currently active in the workforce on a constant basis.....working day and night.

The story revolves around a true creature of habit.  Taking the same train into work and including his daily rituals with unrelenting precision..........performing the same duties and tasks day in and day out.  The results?  Striving to perfect his craft and continuously reaching for the next level of "deliciousness."

His eldest son Yoshikazu, heir to the sushi throne, lives in the huge shadow cast by his father.  The audience is quick to feel sorry for him as both they and Yoshikazu realize that these shoes are impossible to fill.  Yet he, and a handful of apprentices and prep cooks, toil day and night in the attempt to gain Jiro's approval.

Sushi training lasts for about 10 years.  The apprentice starts with handing hot towels then eventually works their way up to picking rice and massaging octopus for 45 minutes. Some quit...only lasting one day...while others possess the heart and desire to embrace their love.

The cinematic shots and photography of the sushi presented are breathtaking.  Glistening morsels of fish so fresh that you can almost still see it quiver.  Based on that old saying "You eat with your eyes first," this movie is a feast.  One of the best pictures of the year so far.

There are a handful of other "foodie" movies that I could recommend....either through netflix, redbox or available for purchase.  Each holds a very special place in my heart.  All exemplify the true nature and purpose for all things culinary.  The following are in no particular order.........

1) Ratatouille (2007)

Based on an extermination business in Paris (yes, I went and saw the store) this masterful animated jaunt explains food in a very unique yet down to earth way.  A particular scene has Remy, our hero, describing food in terms of texture and taste with a direct correlation to music and color.  It is one of the few movies that explains every one's role in the kitchen.  More importantly, it exhibits the power that food has to transport us to a more simple and happier time.   After tasting the signature dish, Anto Ego, the food critic, is immediately whisked back to childhood.  How many times have we felt the same way after tasting a grilled cheese sandwich with a bowl of tomato soup?  Or mac and cheese?

2) Big Night (1996)

A story of two brothers working at a failing Italian restaurant.  There last hope for salvation....one last meal to turn things around and save the family business.  Stanley Tucci cooks breakfast for his brother, Tony Shalhoub, in real time.  Tucci cooking eggs without a single word of dialogue spoken.  Brilliant.

3) Kings of Pastry (2009)

A moving documentary about the Meilleur Ouvrier de France.....a daunting 3 day pastry competition.

4)  Today's Special (2009)

Yes it's cheesy and cliche....especially the ending.  But any movie about a sous chef living in New York City who's trying to get by, hits really close to home with me.

5)  Food Inc. (2008)

A poiquant documentary that exposes corporate America by controlling the food industry while flexing their muscles towards small time farmers and land owners.

6)  Waiting (2005)

The quintessential training video for anyone entering the restaurant industry.  This movie nailed it.  For those who have seen this movie and worked or have been employed in the restaurant business, no explanation is needed.  For those who have not, no explanation is possible.

Tuesday, February 7, 2012

Stocks

When it comes to making something, creating a dish, following a recipe, menu design, etc., I've always led my culinary career by two simple rules.  Rule #1:  There is no one right way to do anything.  Rule #2:  The only right way to do anything is the way of that restaurant in which you are currently working. 

As we start talking about the concept of food, I find it only fitting that we start "at the top."  The beginning to every basic cooking technique and general source for all things culinary.  The basics.  The building blocks.  The foundation.  Strong foundation.  Strong house.  Stocks represent and exemplify all criteria.

I began my culinary career at the California Culinary Academy, San Francisco in the winter of 1998.  I remember my first homework assignment....read the chapter about stocks from our textbook "On Cooking."  I remember the first sentence of the first paragraph I ever read.  "Stock means life."

Stocks are the base for any soup, sauce, (including Mother Sauces), poaching liquids, reductions......anything that gives body, flavor, and balance to a dish.  Stocks enhance and tie in every ingredient and component within that desired cuisine.  What's a meal without a great sauce?  Stock means life.  It is true to this day; and a perfect jumping off point towards our numerous culinary discussions. 

For all intensive purposes, there are four main examples of stocks: chicken, veal, vegetable and fish.  Cooking time varies for each.....depending on what you're going for.  A vegetable stock takes about 45 minutes to an hour to complete.  A veal stock cooks over night. 

However, in a general sense, you can make a stock from just about anything.  Shrimp, lobster, mushroom, duck.....anything that evokes the base flavor of what you want to highlight.  All you need are four essential ingredients. 1) The source, i.e. bones, shells, mushroom stems, vegetables, etc.  2) Mirepoix.  3) Aromatics.  4) Liquid.

First, the source of the sought after flavor should be the starring role.  If you're making a chicken soup, then chicken bones act as that source ingredient.  The source gives the stock its' main flavor.  It should be the focal point.  As the components come together during the cooking process, it is important to emphasize and treat the source as such.  A strong chicken flavor makes a great chicken soup.

A standard mirepoix is a measured ratio of root vegetables.  50% onions.  25% carrots.  25% celery.  I say "standard" because there are other examples of mirepoix.  Using the same ratio of onions, carrots, and bell peppers which is referred to as "The Holy Trinity", is a staple in Cajun and Creole cuisine.  Gumbos, jambalaya's and dirty rice use "The Holy Trinity" as their base.

The third component to a stock are the aromatics.  Called a bouquet garnish, garlic, black peppercorns, fresh thyme, bay leaves, and other fresh herbs are encased in cheesecloth and tied with butcher's twine.  Aromatics gives the stock it's floral scent and enhances the complexity.

Our fourth ingredient is liquid.  A liquid is used to marry all the components of the stock together.  It also serves as an agent to the cooking method being used to make the stock.  In most cases, water is used.  However, other liquids can be used to help intensify and manipulate the over all flavor.  For example, instead of water, use another stock instead.  This is commonly known as a double stock.

Never add salt to a stock.  Salt leaches the blood from the bones you are using...thus adding additional unwanted impurities to the stock.  Impurities, such as blood from the bones and dirt from the vegetables, make the stock cloudy and defeats the propose of what you're trying to accomplish.  Be careful.  Wash all vegetables thoroughly. 

Secondly, if you add salt to a stock, the salt deposits will concentrate during the cooking process and make the stock salty.  You're looking for a neutral stock in terms of flavor.  Remember, the stock is the base.  Once the base is neutral, you can add and layer flavor to your desired end product.  Never boil a stock.

Later on this year, I will do a live cooking demo (via on line camera) towards the fundamentals of stock making.  For now, I will take what we discussed and apply this rhetoric to a more practical stand point.  As a reminder, Rule #1:  There is no one right way to make anything.  Some of you make stocks differently from me.  But this is how I do it. 

Below is a recipe for a light chicken stock.  There are two kinds of chicken stock, light and dark.  For a dark chicken stock, simply roast the bones and mirepoix in a pan first....deglazing with white wine to catch the natural juices and flavor from roasting said ingredients.  Adding these components to the other ingredients will give the dark chicken stock it's color. 

Chicken Stock:

Yields 4-5 Quarts

1 Whole Chicken, bones/carcass
1 Large Carrot, peeled, large dice
2 Celery Stalks, large dice
2 Large Onions, large dice
1 Leek, white part only, thoroughly washed, large dice
3 ea. Garlic Cloves, crushed
2 tsp. Black Peppercorns
4 Sprigs of Fresh Thyme
1 bun. Parsley Stems
1 ea. Bay Leaf
6 Quarts Water, enough to cover

Procedure:

1)  In a large stock pot, combine the chicken bones and six quarts of water.  Add the leeks.  Leeks contain a protein enzyme that, when broken down during cooking, gives the finished chicken stock more of a gelatinous feel and texture.  This will be ideal when preparing thick, rich sauces.  Bring the contents to a simmer over a low heat.

2)  With a spoon or ladle, gently skim any impurities (white foam, gray or black specks) that may rise to the top of the pot while the stock is simmering.  This is called "skimming the scum".  Continue this process for 30 minutes.  You should start to see a clear liquid begin to form.

3)  Add the mirepoix and contents of the bouquet garnish....garlic, black peppercorns, parsley stems, fresh thyme, bay leaf, etc. Personally, I just throw all aromatics in without the use of a cheesecloth since you're going to strain the stock when it is finished anyway.  Continue skimming the scum throughout.

4)  Cook over a low heat for 3-4 hours....checking periodically that the stock does not boil.  The finished product should be a nice, clear liquid with a beautiful golden hue.

5)  Strain the stock over a cheesecloth wrapped chinois into a container.

6)  Chill the stock in an ice water bath.  Wrap and label.

Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Restaurant Week 2012

It's that time of year again.  Restaurant Week.  Celebrating it's fifth year, Los Angeles will open many of it's culinary doors to help promote and raise public awareness towards the variety of great food that this city has to offer.  Three course lunches, depending on where you go and what you order, range from $16, $22, $28.  Three course dinners, again depending, go for about $28, $34, $44 respectively.  Restaurant Week starts on Sunday, January 22, 2012 and goes through Friday, February 3, 2012. 


For more information and a complete list of the participating restaurants, (including the one I'm at, hint, hint, nudge, nudge, wink, wink......ahem....Go to Rollingstone for Restaurant Week), click on the website below.


Now, I'd like to take this time to answer a question from one of our readers.  Kory Lee wrote "When you carve a brisket, do you just cut off the tip?" (Whoa...to all my peeps in the RSLA kitchen)

Well Kory, it depends on what you're going for and which cooking technique is being utilized.  In barbecue, when you cook a brisket slow and low, most of the flavor from the meat is concentrated and maintained at the ends, or tips.  In fact, a very popular southern barbecue menu item is called a "burnt ends sandwich"......where the tips of the brisket are cut off, reserved, flavored in the barbecue sauce from that region, and served on bread or a roll.

When a brisket is prepared another way, either roasted or braised, upon carving, you treat this item like any other large piece of meat...i.e. ham or pot roast.  Start at one side, and begin slicing.  It's all about personal preference.

Saturday, January 7, 2012

Review of China Poblano. Las Vegas, NV.

Disclaimer:

Before I begin, whenever I review a restaurant, recipe or anything else for that matter, I will not rate it.  There will be no "two thumbs up", "four stars", or "smiley faces".  I will document, describe, and relate the concept of what the restaurant and chef set out to do.  I will tell you the good and/or the bad.  Such objectivity will leave it up to our readers.  Go out there and try it.......without any bias or built up expectations.  Draw up your own conclusions.  We all have different tastes.  Plus, this gives everyone a chance to share their own experience.  As always, if there's a restaurant anyone has recently tried, you are all encouraged to share that as well......making this blog different, interesting, and a whole lotta fun.


Monday, December 19, 2011
Cosmopolitan Hotel and Casino.  Las Vegas, NV.
8pm.  Resos for a 3 top.

Chef Jose Andres's Spanish flair, tied with his talents of molecular gastronomy, makes him an outstanding chef.  He helped pioneer the "tapas" or "small plates" movement here in the United States.  A James Beard Award winner, Chef Andres is a constant fixture on the Food Network...mainly Top Chef.  His 2005 cookbook, Tapas: A Taste of Spain in America, is a staple for every chef's library. I've had the pleasure of eating at Chef Andres's restaurant, The Bazaar, in Beverly Hills, many times.  I couldn't wait to try out his Vegas venture of China Poblano.

China Poblano is a unique blend of Mexican and Chinese cuisines.  Nestled in a very busy, very flashy Cosmopolitan Hotel and Casino, this restaurant promotes a sense of variety and authenticity to an otherwise stale foreground.  At first site, China Poblano looks like any other Chinese Take-Out place scattered along Columbus Ave. on the Upper West Side of New York City.....complete with a neon sign that simply reads "Chinese Food".

The three of us, myself and two very close friends of mine, entered the restaurant and were quite pleasantly surprised.  The decor was inviting and welcoming.  Warm colors, combined with traditional and nouveau artwork greeted us as we walked in.  The main dining room layout boasted a delicate balance of classic restaurant design, along with a gathering of hip and recently trendy commuter tables.  My guess is that we just got in right before the second seating; for a Monday at 8pm, the restaurant began to fill up rapidly.

Our waitress was very friendly.  Neatly dressed and very at tentative.  Her knowledge of the food and the menu made us comfortable of the choices we were about to make.  She recommended getting several dishes, since the portion sizes are a little smaller than we would be accustomed to.  Exhibiting yet another popular culinary trend of small plates.

The menu was very eclectic.... carefully integrating a fine line of two cuisines the restaurant's concept sought after.  A yen to the yang.  On one side, Chinese delicacies such as dim sum, noodles and Mongolian beef looked very appetizing.  The other side included an amazing array of tacos for every taste imaginable, ceviches, and gazpacho's.  This would prove to be very difficult to decide on which direction to take.

We started with the traditional sui mai, a shrimp and pork dim sum stuffed with water chestnuts and mushrooms.  The presentation was standard.  A bamboo steamer done in a way that every restaurant under the sun does it.  But the taste was magnificent.  Each dim sum was steamed and beautifully seared.  The sauce had just the right amount of savory and sweetness to make us want a little more.  Very flavorful....packing a huge punch.  All and all, the best dish of the evening.

Our next course, shown below, is China Poblano's signature dish...20 Vegetable Fried Rice.

As the name states, there are 20 different kinds of vegetables in this fried rice.  No, I will not name them all.  Great presentation.  Nice floral aroma.  Great texture contrast...with some of the vegetables having more of an "al dente" feel versus the softness of the rice.  Seasoning was on point.  The overall flavor was very complex.  I kept hitting notes of earthiness, such as mushrooms and pea shoots while sweet carrots and radishes crept up and complemented all the other vegetables used within the dish.

Next up was The Ocean's Nest. (pictured)




When a dish is first presented, we see it.  Hence, we eat with our eyes first.  How a meal looks is just as important as how it should taste.  Presentation looked standard...with the prawns taking center stage.  The prawns were excellently seasoned.  The sauce, however, was very disappointing.  Thick and viscous.  Flat in flavor and very one dimensional. The sauce had a strong fishy after taste that would compromise your taste buds if you continued.  The pan fried noodles had no taste as well.

I wanted to try noodles, so our waitress suggested a noodle in broth dish called Unruly Monk.  This consisted of hand cut flat noodles immersed in a mushroom and soy base.  Table side service had our food runner crack an egg over the dish so that it would poach nicely in the hot broth. Nice touch.

This dish seemed a little one note in flavor and texture.  The broth itself was too acidic.....very over powering.  After a while, the acidity would prove to be too overwhelming that I could not finish.  Plus, in terms of texture, you had soft noodles, soft mushrooms and a soft egg.


The Scallop Ceviche (above) is something that came with instructions.  Our food runner brought it to our table and sprayed some vodka on each scallop from a small squeeze bottle.  He then told us the steps to take upon eating this course.  Treat it like a shot, using the half lime as a shot glass, shoot the scallop, then squeeze the lime afterwards. 

Though the presentation and concept was very clever, the dish was very anti climatic. The limes were seared, giving a nice sweet and smoky flavor to it and, at the same time, providing a crunch that was needed.  However, if the main component of the dish were scallops, then the scallops should have shined.  They were bland.  All these intricate flavors and cooking techniques were coming together....and it just fell flat.  A successful dish is seasoning each ingredient.  Build layers of flavor that harmonizes with each other while using contrasting flavor and texture profiles that balances and rounds everything out.

Overall, everything was good.  There were some items that hit it out of the park.  While others were almost there....just needed a little more seasoning and/or tweaking.  Some dishes shined more than others.  While others fell flat.  Each course went out in a timely manner....indicating that the back of the house ran smoothly.  China Poblano is the kind of restaurant where you can either spend $20 or $200.  So be careful.  If you have the means, and want to try something new and unique, China Poblano fits the bill.

Tuesday, January 3, 2012

Overture

I've always wanted to be a chef.  Ever since I can remember.  It's a lifelong passion of mine and I consider myself extremely lucky doing what I've always wanted to do in life as a profession.  Food is universal.  It doesn't matter where you come from, or what language you speak.  Everyone on the planet can identify the comfort and sense of being at home that food brings.  This blog will be a celebration of what food does to us all.


Channeling my background in music, the title, "Overture", simply means that I plan to highlight all the main points I intend to do with Occ-U-Pie Kitchen Space.  First and foremost, all things culinary, as well as the restaurant industry itself, will be discussed.  Restaurant reviews, recipes, helpful tips, culinary trends, other anecdotes, new restaurant openings, and even past and present work experiences will be touched on.  Would we table a conversation about an episode of Top Chef, Chef Hunter, The Layover, etc.?  Absolutely.


This blog should appeal to everyone because it is for everyone.  From culinary professionals and co workers of mine, to advanced foodies, to amateurs just starting out on his or her own journey into the wonderful world of food.


In that regard, Occ-U-Pie Kitchen Space will be 100 percent interactive.  Questions, comments and suggestions are encouraged.  If you burn a bowl of corn flakes, I can help you.  If you're stuck on day 2 of making a torchon and don't know what to do next, I can help you.  Don't know the difference between a broth and a stock?  Please chime in.


In addition, starting later on this year, there will be video links of cooking demos conducted by myself, as well as other friends of mine.  Hands on tutorials that range from basic cooking techniques to complex and elaborate execution of exotic cuisines.  Maybe a live feed into the morning of Thanksgiving would be in order.


I will also you this site to enforce and embrace the strong culinary ties within the community of San Fernando Valley.  Look for announcements promoting fellow culinary entrepreneurs on when and where their products will be available.  Updates on when the next meeting of the NoHo Winos will take place.  Or I'll just spearhead a couple of cooking classes that I will instruct from my home.  The possibilities are endless.


So follow.  Ask questions.  Tune in, take care and get ready to celebrate.